
WHEN MOTHER 

,ETS US CARPENTER 



JOHN D. ADAMS 




Class -JZJZUzlC 
Book ■ A i <~( 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. 



"WHEN MOTHER LETS US" SERIES 

Each Volume, price 75 cents net (postage 10 cents extra) 
When Mother Lets Us Cut Out Pictures. By Ida E. Boyd. 
When Mother Lets Us Keep Pets. By Constance Johnson. 
When Mother Lets Us Garden. By Frances Duncan. 
When Mother Lets Us Sew. By Virginia Ralston. 
When Mother Lets Us Play. By Angela M. Keyes. 
When Mother Lets Us Help. By Constance Johnson. 
When Mother Lets Us Give a Party. By Elsie Duncan Yale. 
When Mother Lets Us Cook. By Constance Johnson. 
When Mother Lets Us Act. By Stella George Stern Perry. 
When Mother Lets Us Make Gifts. By Mary B. Grubb. 

When Mother Lets Us Make Paper-Box Furniture. 

By G. Ellingwood Rich. 

When Mother Lets Us Make Toys. By G. Ellingwood Rich. 

When Mother Lets Us Make Candy. By Elizabeth and 

Louise Bache. 
When Mother Lets Us Carpenter. By John D. Adams. 
WTien Mother Lets Us Model. By Helen Mortimer Adams. 

When Mother Lets Us Make Playthings. By G. Elling- 
wood Rich. 



For brie f description of each volume, tee page facing last page of text 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US 
CARPENTER 



A BOOK TELLING BOYS AND GIRLS HOW TO 

MAKE MANY USEFUL AND ATTRACTIVE 

ARTICLES WITH FEW TOOLS AND 

AT A SMALL EXPENSE 



By JOHN D. ADAMS 

Designer of the "Woman's Borne Companion " Furniture 

Series ; Author of "Metal Work and Etching," 

1 ' Arts- Crafts Lamps," etc. 




NEW YORK 
MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY 

1916 



Copyright, 1916, by 
MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY 

All Eights Reserved 



$ 



t 7 - 



APR 17 1916 
©CLA428568 



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TABLE OF CONTENTS 

THINGS TO MAKE 

PAGE 

Swing Board 12 

Coat Hanger 14 

Soap Holder 16 

Peck Measure 18 

Tool Box 22 

Candle Holder 26 

Candle-Stick 28 

Match Box SI 

Tooth-Brush Rack 35 

Whisk Broom Holder 38 

Pipe Rack 41 

Salt Box 44 

Towel Roller 46 

' Sleeve Board 49 

Stationery Rack 51 

Combination Stationery Rack 54 

(JBook Rack 56 

Kitchen Shelf 59 

Clock Bracket 60 

- Flower Bracket 62 

Footstool 64 

Blacking Stand 67 

Shoe-Brush Box 69 

? Flower Stand 72 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Slipper Box 75 

Umbrella Stand 79 

Waste-Basket 83 

Taboret 85 

Bench 88 

Study Table ' . .90 

Rustic Tub 94 

Hanging Fern Basket 96 

Geranium Box 98 

Jardinieres 100 

Wren Box 105 

Martin House 107 

Woodpecker House 109 

RHYMES 

Only a Nail 4 

The Quarreling Tools 8 

The Square 9 

The Ready Repair Man 21 

The Candle-Stick 25 

The Match Box 30 

Pretty Teeth 34 

Grandpa's Pipes 40 

The Useful Sleeve Board 48 

The Clock on the Wall 58 

Shiny Shoes 66 

The Waste-Basket 82 

Winter Flowers 93 

The Birds 103 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Carpenter's Tools 7 

Swing Board 12 

Using the Try Square 12 

Coat Hanger 14 

Soap Holder 16 

Soap Holder Working Drawing 17 

Peck Measure 18 

Mitre Box 19 

End of Peck Measure . . • 19 

Assembling Peck Measure 19 

Tool Box 22 

Tool Box Working Drawing 23 

The Bench Hook 24 

Candle Holder 26 

Candle Holder Working Drawing .... 27 

Candle-Stick 28 

Candle-Stick Working Drawing 29 

Match Box SO 

Match Box Working Drawing 31 

Match Box 32 

Match Box Working Drawing 32 

Tooth-Brush Rack 35 

Tooth-Brush Rack Working Drawing ... 36 

Whisk Broom Holder 38 

Whisk Broom Holder Working Drawing ... 39 

Pipe Rack 40 

Pipe Rack Working Drawing 41 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Salt Box Working Drawing 44 

Salt Box 45 

Towel Roller 46 

Towel Roller Working Drawing .... 46 

Sleeve Board 48 

Sleeve Board Working Drawing 49 

Stationery Rack 51 

Stationery Rack Working Drawing .... 52 

Combination Stationery Rack 54 

Combination Stationery Rack Working Drawing . 55 

Book Rack . .56 

Book Rack Working Drawing 57 

Kitchen Shelf 59 

Clock Bracket . 60 

Clock Bracket Working Drawing . . . .61 

Flower Bracket 62 

Flower Bracket Working Drawing .... 63 

Footstool 64 

Footstool Working Drawing 65 

Blacking Stand 67 

Blacking Stand Working Drawing .... 68 

Shoe-Brush Box 69 

Shoe-Brush Working Drawing 70 

Flower Stand 72 

Flower Stand Working Drawing 73 

Slipper Box 75 

Slipper Box Working Drawing 76 

Slipper Box, Skeleton View 77 

Umbrella Stand 79 

Umbrella Stand Working Drawing .... 80 

Waste-Basket 82 

Waste-Basket Working Drawing .... 83 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Taboret 85 

Taboret Working Drawing 86 

Bench 88 

Bench Working Drawing 89 

Study Table 90 

Study Table Working Drawing 92 

Rustic Tub 94 

Hanging Fern Basket 96 

Geranium Box . 98 

Geranium Box Working Drawing .... 98 

Jardiniere 100 

Jardiniere Working Drawing 101 

Jardiniere 102 

Jardiniere Working Drawing . . . . .102 

Wren Box 105 

Wren Box Working Drawing 106 

Martin House 107 

Martin House Working Drawing . . . .108 

Woodpecker House 109 



FOREWORD TO GROWN-UPS 

To develop the child's creative faculty; to fur- 
nish a healthful diversion, both mental and physi- 
cal; to encourage the making of useful things, are 
the objects of this little book. 

It is unique in two ways. The customary work- 
ing drawings of the assembled article, with their 
numerous and confusing dimension lines, have been 
omitted. Each piece of wood, however, is delineated 
separately on a series of squares, which not only 
display the necessary measurements, but show the 
relation of the various lines all at a glance. The 
idea of proportion is thus accentuated and in a 
way that would be impossible were the dimensional 
data displayed numerically instead of graphically. 

The book is unusual in that it makes no attempt 
to teach the abstract principles of carpentry. Its 
object is not to develop professional carpenters. 
Whether the child holds the saw or hammer just 
right, is here regarded as of slight importance. If 
some trrfling article is spoiled as a result, what of 
it? Has not a necessary lesson been well taught? 
The problem is to maintain a natural, lively in- 
terest in the work, and results will follow as night 
the day. What the child cannot " learn by doing " 
we have no desire to teach. 

Once the child is away from the idea that it is 



2 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

being schooled and is proceeding with its various 
little undertakings on its own initiative, there is 
probably not one parent in ten but who will greatly 
underestimate its capabilities. 

The articles described can all be made by chil- 
dren. No difficult processes are involved — no 
matching and joining, no mortising, no drawers to 
construct. 

I 

All figures refer to sizes in inches and each of the 

small squares in all of the detail plans represents 
exactly one square inch. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



TO YOUNG CARPENTERS 

If there is one DON'T that should be impressed 
more than any other on the mind of the young 
carpenter it is DON'T HURRY. Before touch- 
ing a single piece of wood be sure you know exactly 
what is required and what you are going to do. 
Success in this sort of work lies in not starting 
until you have a clear and vivid mental picture of 
each part of the thing you are going to make and 
not stopping until you have made it look just like 
that picture. 

Mark out the necessary lines with a sharp pencil 
and as you cut or saw away the extra wood, for- 
get all about the other pieces and work on the one 
in hand just as though everything depended on 
IT. If you have an interest in what you are 
doing and will not hurry or become impatient, 
there can only be one result and that will be de- 
lightfully surprising. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



ONLY A NAIL 

I'm just a little skinny nail, 

No hands or feet have I, 

And though they pound me on the head, 

I never wince or cry. 

Sometimes my path is very hard — 
I just can't get ahead, 
And then they pound me all the more 
Until I'm nearly dead. 

I always travel straight and true — 
Turn neither left nor right, 
And never once I've lost my head 
Or fail to stick real tight. 

I always stay right in my place, 
Through bright or cloudy weather — 
Just sticking tight with all my might, 
A-holding things together. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



MATERIAL 

The most satisfactory wood for making the 
many useful little articles described in this book 
is soft pine. This wood is inexpensive, cuts easily, 
and may be had quite free from knots. Often 
some nice thin boards can be gotten by taking apart 
grocery boxes, although these are usually planed 
smooth only on the outside. The best plan is to 
go to the planing mill, where one can usually get 
quite a little stock of odds and ends at a very small 
cost. Among these there should be a few small 
boards of assorted thicknesses, such as one-quarter, 
three-eighths, and one-half inch stuff. 

Before beginning the construction of the larger 
articles, the drawings and descriptions should be 
carefully studied, and a list of the necessary pieces 
accurately made out, so that the various pieces 
will be uniform in material and thickness. 

A pound of small wire nails — usually called 
brads — of assorted sizes running from half -inch to 
inch and a half, and a dozen sheets of number one 
and a half and two sandpaper, will also be neces- 
sary. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



TOOLS 

Do not feel discouraged because you haven't all 
of the articles shown on the page of tools. It is 
very likely that several of these you will not need 
for a long while, and then by that time you will 
have made so many useful things about the house 
that mother or father will be glad to buy them 
for you. 

Almost every home has a hammer and a saw, 
and with these and a sharp knife you can get a 
good start. Do not under any circumstances buy 
a box of cheap tools simply because there are a 
great many of them. It is much better to buy good 
tools one at a time as you can afford it. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

THE QUARRELING TOOLS 

The tools upon the bench, 

Having nothing else to do, 
Just like idle boys and girls, 

Began to fret and stew. 

The saw told the hammer 

He did nothing but make noise, 

And was NOT a good example 
For proper little boys. 

Then up spoke the bench and said, 
The saw should not complain, 

For he was always cutting him, 
Which went against the grain. 

Then the nail thought the hammer 

Was always knocking him, 
While the board he blamed the plane 

For making him so thin. 

But the plane only said 

That the board was quite too rough, 
And nothing ever good could come 

Of such a piece of stuff. 

And so they jangled one and all 

Until the close of day, 
When the plane he smoothed things over 

In his superficial way. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



THE SQUARE 

You may be very careful 

With the hammer, saw and plane — 
Unless you've used your try square, 

All your work will be in vain. 

Though each board be smooth and pretty 
And cut just the proper shape, 

When they are nailed together 
All the seams will surely gape. 

So do not ever draw a line 

To cut a piece in two 
Unless you use the good old square 

To get it straight and true. 



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10 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

STAINING AND FINISHING 

Pine can be stained to closely match almost any 
of the more expensive and harder woods of which 
furniture is generally made. The hardware stores 
supply color cards that show the effect of their 
stains, which may be had in small cans and are 
easily applied. There are three kinds of stains 
sold- — water, acid, and oil stain. Always use the 
latter, which may be applied with a brush or a 
rag, rubbing it well in and finally wiping off with 
a dry cloth all that has not soaked in. Always try 
the stain on a small block before using. 

After the piece has thoroughly dried, which will 
take several hours, go over the surface very lightly 
with fine sandpaper, and then apply a coat of rub- 
bing wax, which also comes in small cans and is 
about as thick as shoe polish. Rub this in evenly 
all over, rubbing with the grain and real hard for 
several minutes. 

This simple process results in a very practical 
finish, which may easily be restored when scratched 
by rewaxing. However, a finish that will be a little 
harder and more shiny may be made by brushing 
the surface with thin orange shellac after the stain 
has dried. The piece should then be sandpapered 
lightly when dry and polished by vigorously rub- 
bing with wax on a rag. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 11 

PUTTYING: No good carpenter ever uses 
very much putty, but when one is just starting 
there is sure to be a crack or a seam, as well as 
some nail holes, that will require filling in. Al- 
ways work up the putty in the hand until it is soft 
and free from lumps. Never attempt to apply it 
to new wood, because the wood will absorb the 
oil and the putty will crumble out. See that the 
oil stain runs well into the places to be puttied and 
also work up a little stain with the putty so that 
it will match the wood. Never apply the putty 
until the wood is perfectly dry. 



12 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 











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SWING BOARD 





MAKING A SWING BOARD 

" A swing board," you say, " that's easy. Who 
doesn't know how to make a swing board? " Of 
course it is easy, and because it is so it is a good 

example to show that 
even in the making 
of the simplest things 
there is a right way 
and a wrong way. 
The usual way is to 
cut a V-shaped nick 
in each end, and, every time anyone jumps off, 
the board falls into the trampled dust below. Here 
is the right way: 

Get a board about six inches wide and as long 
as the ropes are apart at the top of the swing. 
Square off the ends with the saw and then draw 
some one-inch squares as shown in the drawing. 
Next take the com- 
passes and draw the 
circles for the rope 
and the curve at each 
corner, placing the 
point of the com- 
passes exactly on the points marked with the black 
dots in the drawing. Bore the two holes for the 
rope and saw out the tapering piece at each end so 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



13 



that the rope can just be forced into the holes. 
Round off the corners, sandpaper the edges and 
you will have a board that will not catch and tear 
or fall off. 




14 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

COAT HANGER 

A coat hanger is another simple thing to make — 
provided you go at it in the right way. A paper 
pattern should first be made, and for this we will 
need a piece of smooth wrapping paper large 





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COAT HANGER 



enough for us to mark out three rows of one- 
inch squares, fifteen squares to the row. Tack 
this down and then tie a piece of string to 
a lead pencil in order to draw the two curves, 
which is a very easy matter when the other end 
of the string is tied or looped around a tack. For 
the top curve the string should be thirteen inches 
long and nineteen for the lower. In order to place 
the curves properly on the squares, keep shifting 
the tack until the two ends come out just right. 
We must now get a piece of wood about three- 
quarters of an inch thick and fifteen inches long, 
and mark out the pattern on it. The hanger is 
then to be carefully sawn out with the keyhole saw, 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



15 



after which the edges should be planed smooth and 
rounded off and the whole piece finally gone over 
with sandpaper. Next bore a small hole in the 
center at the top, and then make a hook out of 
good stout wire, the end of which should be pushed 
through the hole and bent over to keep it from 
coming out, after which a coat of thin shellac will 
complete the task. 




16 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



SOAP HOLDER 

We must now try our skill at making something 
consisting of more than one piece, and see how 
closely the different parts may be fitted together. 
A good example to begin with is the soap holder 



■ i 



illustrated. From the working drawing may be 
learned all the necessary sizes when it is remem- 
bered that each of the small squares represents ex- 
actly one inch. The wood should be about three- 
eighths of an inch thick. First saw out the back, 
neatly rounding the two upper corners and boring 
two quarter-inch holes for hanging. Next prepare 
the front piece, and see that it is exactly the same 
length as the back. Both pieces should be sand- 
papered smooth and flat on the ends. Do not hold 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



17 



the sandpaper in the hand, but wrap it on a small 

flat block, or you will surely rub off too much on 

one side and so spoil the 

outline. The two ends 

are now to be marked out, 

using a sharp pencil and 

the square, and finished 

accurately to line, after 

which the four pieces may 

be nailed together, using 

two or three small wire 

nails for each connection. 

The bottom is now to 

be sawn out just large 

enough to fit inside. Bore 

a number of quarter-inch 

holes in this, as shown in 

the working drawing, and 

then nail in place. 

Before using the holder 
it should be well oiled, 
and may also be painted 
with white oil paint to good advantage. 




18 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 




PECK MEASURE 

What boy or girl is there who, when sent to buy 

a peck of apples, has 
not felt as though 
peck measures were 
getting smaller all 
the time? If you 
will read what fol- 
lows and study the 
drawing, you will be 
able to make an ac- 
curate measure of 
your own and will then know exactly what you 
are getting. 

You will require some long strips measuring 
half an inch thick and about an inch and an eighth 
wide. There will be ten side pieces twelve inches 
long, three bottom pieces eleven inches, eight end 
pieces eight inches, and four corner pieces six and 
three-quarter inches long. For sawing a lot of 
small pieces like these, it is rather slow to mark 
each one out with the square, and so carpenters 
usually have what they call a miter box, which is 
simply three boards nailed or screwed together so 
as to form a trough about four inches wide and 
about two feet long. Two pairs of saw cuts are 
then made in the sides — one at right angles to the 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



19 



length and the other at forty-five degrees, which 
is the angle the pieces must be cut when we want 
to make a picture frame. 
When you have a miter box 
and wish to saw a piece off 
squarely, it is only neces- 
sary to place it in the box, 
hold it tightly against one side and then work the 
saw back and forth in the slits cut in the sides. 
This is a very handy device, and if you make one, 




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take it to the nearest carpenter and he will be glad 
to saw the slits for you in just the proper places. 
After you have cut all the pieces of the crate to 
the proper length, nail up each end complete as 
illustrated. Next set up the ends and connect them 
by nailing on the top and bottom strips of each 
side, after which it takes but a few minutes to nail 
on the remaining pieces. 



20 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



If you should attempt to make this crate out 
of strips not exactly the size given, some allow- 
ance must be made in the length of the side pieces, 
as the inside dimensions must not be changed. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CAEPEXTER 21 

THE READY REPAIR MAN 
(A nail in time saves nine.) 

When a hinge comes off the cupboard and 
The screen-door catch is gone, 
Just get your little tool box out 
And put a new one on. 

It only takes a little time — 
Perhaps a nail or screw, 
To fix things up, w T hen first they break, 
To be as good as new. 

But let it go till it's all loose, 
And THEX just try to mend it, 
And you will find it's little use — 
Its days are likely ended. 




22 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 




TOOL BOX 

It may be a slat on the chicken coop is broken, 
perhaps a picket on the front fence is loose or 

something is wrong 
with the wireless out- 
fit on the top of the 
barn — but whatever 
it is you will find it 
a great convenience 
to have a box with a 
handle so that you can carry the necessary tools and 
nails to where they are needed to make repairs. 

There are six pieces of wood in the box illus- 
trated, and you will get a clear idea of their sizes 
and shapes from the working drawing, in which 
each small square represents exactly one inch. The 
boards should be one-half inch thick, but if they 
are a little thicker it will not matter, provided you 
proceed in the proper order. 

First saw the side and end pieces off squarely 
to the exact length. Nail these together and then 
measure the size of the bottom, which should next 
be nailed on. The center piece is six inches wide 
and should now be cut just long enough to fit in 
snugly between the ends. Mark out the upper 
part as shown in the drawing, but before cutting 
off the triangle at each of the upper corners, bore 



WHEN MOTHEE LETS US CAEPEXTER 



23 



two one-inch holes and cut out the wood in be- 
tween them, so as to form the handle. Nail this 
piece in place, ex- 
actly in the center, 
driving the nails in 
through the ends and 
up through the bot- 
tom. 

Sometimes these 
boxes are divided up 
on one side with sev- 
eral thin cross parti- 
tions, so as to form 
a number of pockets 
for the different sizes 
of nails and screws 
that are generally 
used. If such a box 
is desired, one of the 
sides must be left off until the small partitions are 
securely fastened in place by nailing in through 
the center board. 

A box for holding knives and forks in the kitchen 
may be made in the same way as the plain tool 
box, except that it is not so large and the wood is 
thinner. 




24 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



THE BENCH HOOK 

In sawing small pieces such as the side boards 
of the tool box just described, it is often more con- 
venient to saw them on the work-bench instead of 
holding them on a box with the knee. To do this 

one must have 
what is called 
a bench hook. 
The way it is 
used is clearly 
illustrated, 
but its full ad- 
vantage can- 
not be appre- 
ciated until it is tried. It consists of a small board 
about four inches wide and eight inches long with 
a little cross-strip nailed squarely across each end — 
one on top and one below. The lower one catches 
the edge of the bench and the top one keeps the 
board being sawn from slipping back. When one 
attempts to hold a piece of wood on the bench while 
it is being sawn, it will almost always shift back 
and forth with the saw, because there is nothing to 
push against, but with the bench hook one can lean 
slightly forward and very easily hold the wood 
steadily against the back piece of the hook. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CAEPENTEIt 



25 



THE CANDLE-STICK 

When out in the hallway- 
It's dark as can be, 

And the stairway's so black 
You just never could see, 

Then I light up my candle, 
When I run up to bed, 

So I won't stub my toes 
Or perhaps bump my head. 




26 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



CANDLE HOLDER AND CANDLE-STICK 

Our little problems thus far have largely been a 
matter of getting ready. We must now get right 
down to business and make something just as 
neatly as we can, so that when it is stained and 
rubbed it will look good 
enough to stand on the side- 
board. Let us try the little 
candle holder. 

First get a hard lead pen- 
cil and make it quite sharp. 
Carefully mark out the base 
board on a smooth piece of 
wood, making the corners 
exactly true by means of 
the square. Saw this out 
and then make the edges 
smooth by means of a piece of sandpaper 
wrapped on a small flat block. (Xever use 
the sandpaper without the block if you want the 
edges to be flat and the corners sharp.) Hold it 
flat and rub back and forth without rocking from 
side to side, otherwise you will spoil the outline. 
If you have no vise to hold the wood in place, brace 
it against some projection to aid you in holding it 
steady. The square center block is next in order 
and in sawing this out be sure to get it perfectly 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



27 



square and flat on the ends or there will be seams 
at the top and bottom when the other pieces are 
put on. Bore a hole in the center the size of a 
candle and three-quarters of an inch deep and then 
fasten the block in the exact center of the base 
board and square with the sides by nailing up 



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CANDLE HOLLER. 



through the bottom. The top piece is now to be 
marked out and the exact center found by drawing 
diagonal lines from corner to corner. Before cut- 
ting this piece out it would be best to bore the 
central hole for the candle, because the larger the 
piece of wood the less apt is it to split. This also 
applies to the hole in the small piece that forms the 
handle. The top and handle may be fastened on 



28 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



with some small brads, but a neater job will result 
if we use a little glue instead of the nails. Paint 
the top of the center block with glue and let this 
thoroughly dry. Then apply another coat and also 
coat the under side of the top block, which should 
then be put in place and some heavy weights placed 
on it overnight. The handle 
may then be fitted in and 
fastened in the same way. 

The candle-stick is made 
in a similar manner. The 
base consists of a small 
block on top of a larger one 
with a very small block on 
the bottom at each corner. 
The long center piece 
should first be smoothed 
up perfectly square, after 
which the corners should 
be cut away as indicated 
in the drawing, and a 
hole the size of a candle 
bored in the center of the 
top to depth of about three-quarters of an inch. 
These pieces may all be nailed together with- 
out any of the nails showing, but the small top 
block should be glued on as we did before. As you 
sandpaper the edges of the different pieces smooth, 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



29 



test them often with the square to make sure that 
you are not rubbing one side down more than an- 




other. This applies particularly to the bottom end 
of the long center piece, which must stand per- 
fectly straight. 

The pieces should be stained to match the fur- 
niture of the room where they are to be used and 
rubbed with wax, as previously described. 



30 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



THE MATCH BOX 

When suddenly a storm comes up 
At twelve o'clock at night, 

We've got to jump right out of bed 
And quickly get a light. 

No 'lectric current — not a match, 
Yet windows we must close, 

Then as we bump round in the dark 
We're sure to stub our toes. 

So make this little match box and 
You'll always find a match, 

And what is more there'll be at hand 
The very place to scratch. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CAEPENTEE 



31 



MATCH BOX 

A match box, a place to strike a light, and a 
calendar all in one — a practical and interesting 
problem for any boy or girl carpenter. One can 
always find a neat calendar pad, which is easily 
pasted in place, and 
a piece of emery 
cloth or sandpaper 
makes the finest sort 
of a place to scratch 
a light. Either may 
be renewed as often 
as necessary. 

The woodwork is 
simple. First get a 
smooth flat board 
about three - eighths 
of an inch thick, 
four inches wide, and 
eight inches long. 
Mark this out lightly 
in one-inch squares, 
and then with the sharp point of the compasses 
set on the points marked with the black dots on 
the drawing, draw the necessary curves. Next 
join these up with pencil and ruler, and then 
carefully proceed to saw away the unnecessary 







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WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



wood. Do not saw quite down to the pencil 
marks, as a small margin must be left for trim- 
ming the edges smooth with knife and sand- 
paper. Apply the try square every now and then 
to make sure you are not cutting the edges off on 
the slant. If you can find some round article of a 
size that will just fit into the curves and wrap it 














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with a piece of sandpaper, the curved edges can 
be finished much more neatly. 

The lower portion of the box is made of thinner 
wood — about one-quarter inch stuff. First make 
the front piece and then the ends. Nail these to- 
gether and to the back board, and then fit in the 
bottom. 

If a calendar is not desired, the size of the back 
may be cut down a little as shown in the second 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 33 

match box, but the lower part will be the same in 
both. 

The wood should be stained, waxed and well- 
rubbed. The emery-cloth or sandpaper for strik- 
ing the light may be pasted on or tacked in place 
with brass-headed nails. Cut the piece squarely 
and round the corners slightly. Do not use a good 
pair of scissors or your best knife for cutting emery 
or sandpaper, as it will take the edge off. 




34 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



PRETTY TEETH 

If boys would not have toothache 

And girls want pretty teeth, 
They must brush them every morning, 

Up above and underneath. 

Each one should have his own tooth-brush 
And keep it clean and white. 

Don't pile it up with others 
So you can't tell which is right. 

But make this little holder 

For your sisters and yourself — 

Don't leave your brushes lying 
Any longer on the shelf. 






WHEN MOTHER LETS US CAKPENTEB 



35 



TOOTH-BRUSH RACK 

Tooth-brushes look so much alike that it is really- 
very necessary to have a separate place for each 
brush, and as it is not sanitary to have the damp 
bristles rubbing around 
on some dusty surface, 
we should either hang 
the brushes up or stand 
them on end. As most 
brushes have no holes 
in the end, the best 
plan is to make the lit- 
tle rack illustrated, 
which makes a very 
neat addition to the 
bathroom when it is 
white enameled. This 
enamel comes in small 
cans and is applied 
with a brush just like 

paint. While one coat will do, a much nicer finish 
will result if the first coat is lightly rubbed with 
very fine sandpaper and a second one added. Be 
sure that the first is not only dry but hard before 
rubbing. 

The woodwork is very simple. The pieces 
should be three-eighths or one-half inch thick, and 



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the proper sizes can easily be determined from the 
working drawing by counting the number of one- 
inch squares. The only difficulty you may have 
will be in boring the three holes in the top piece 
without splitting. This can be avoided by boring 






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the holes in a piece several inches too long and then 
cutting off the ends to the proper length. As 
soon as the point of the bit comes through, turn 
the wood over and bore from the other side, so as 
not to make any splinters. Sandpaper the insides 
and edges of the holes perfectly smooth. In the 
bottom piece three hollow spots must be gouged 
out to keep the lower ends of the brushes from 
slipping around. Set the points of the compasses 
one-half inch apart and mark the corners for 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



37 



rounding. Attach the top and bottom pieces to the 
back by nailing in from behind, and after the 
enameling is done place a screw eye in the top for 
hanging. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



WHISK BROOM HOLDER 

The little whisk broom holder which we are now 
going to construct makes a very neat and practical 
present. We feel quite sure that any boy or girl 
who presents this to his or her mother — after it is 
all stained and waxed, with a neat little calendar 
pad in place — is pretty sure to be 
repaid with some nice new tools. 

The back and sides should be 
one-half inch thick and the front 
piece one-quarter inch thick. 
From the drawing it will be 
noted that the back board is 
five by nine. Square up the 
ends and mark out the outline 
very lightly with a sharp pen- 
cil, remembering that it is not necessary to cover 
the entire board with squares as in the draw- 
ing. Use the compasses to get the proper curves, 
and when these are sawn out with the fret saw, 
rub the edges smooth with a piece of sandpaper 
wrapped on something round that will fit the 
curves. Before nailing up, hold the pieces to- 
gether and put in the broom to make sure that it 
will fit. If it is very large or very small, some 
change may be necessary. Fasten the sides on by 
small brads driven in from behind, and while the 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CABPEXTER 



39 



front may also be nailed on, a neater appearance 
will result if it is fastened with glue and put under 
a heavy weight all night. Bore a hole near the 
top so that it may be hung up and then stain and 
rub with wax, after which paste on the calendar 
pad. 



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40 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



GRANDPA'S PIPES 

If you would please your grandpa 
With something well worth while, 

Just make him this fine pipe rack, 
And THEN you'll see him smile. 



Have one hole for his corn-cob pipe 

Another for his briar, 
And hang it up right near his chair 

That sits beside the fire. 







WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



41 



PIPE RACK 

In the making of this pipe rack there is room 
for the young carpenter to exercise considerable 
ingenuity, particularly in arranging the decoration 
in the center. If a 
nice shiny picture tile 
can be found, the 
wood should be hol- 
lowed out and the 
tile set in, or, if it is 
not too thick, it may 
be held on the out- 
side by means of 
small strips fastened 
around like a frame. 
If a tile cannot be 
found, a picture 
printed on card or 
heavy paper will an- 
swer, but this must 
not be put on until 
after the staining 
and waxing is done. 

When the time comes, use a little glue and pile on 
heavy books to keep it from wrinkling. 

The wood should be three-quarters of an inch 
thick. The pattern may be marked out directly 





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42 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

on the board or upon a smooth flat sheet of paper. 
After studying the drawing it will be noted that 
the outline is controlled by parts of circles drawn 
from the five center points indicated by the black 
dots. When these circles are drawn, no difficulty 
will be found in completing the outline with pencil 
and ruler. As the compasses will not be large 
enough to draw the top curve, drive in a pin at the 
point A and use a piece of string looped around 
the pencil. Saw away the extra wood, cutting 
almost to the line, then trim with the knife and 
plane, finishing with sandpaper on a block. In 
order to get the edge flat all the way round, test 
it every little while with the square, otherwise you 
are sure to spoil the outline. 

The pattern for the shelf piece may be readily 
sketched out on paper if three rows of one-inch 
squares are first drawn. The pencil and string will 
again be found useful in drawing the long curve. 
Bore the holes before trimming the edges off, and 
as soon as the point of the bit is felt coming 
through, take it out and bore from the other side, 
so as not to tear off splinters. Sandpaper the in- 
sides and the edges of the holes smooth and then 
fasten the shelf in place with nails driven in from 
behind. 

The three large rings may be used for more 
pipes or else for neckties. If the rings cannot be 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



43 



found around the house, the harness store can sup- 
ply them, and also the small strips of leather to 
attach them, all of which should be done after 
staining and waxing. 




44 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



SALT BOX 

It is always advisable to stand well with the 
cook and one sure way of accomplishing this is to 




make the neat little salt box illustrated, and hang 
it up in the kitchen at the most convenient point. 
The wood should be about three-eighths of an 
inch thick and cut according to the working draw- 
ing, in which each small square represents exactly 
one inch. First make the back and then the sides. 
Fasten these together by nailing from behind. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



45 



Next fit in the front and then the bottom, which 

goes clear inside of the other pieces. When these 

are all nailed up, the lid should be fitted so as to 

lift up and down easily without 

binding or leaving gaping seams 

at the sides. After rounding the 

back edge of the lid, set it in 

place and, very carefully drive in 

a small nail through each side at 

the top corner into the lid so as to 

serve as a hinge. The place for 

these nails is indicated by the 

black spot on the pattern for the 

side, but do not drive the nails clear in until you 

have tried the lid to see that it raises up properly, 

and have also applied the necessary finish. 

This box may be white enameled or shellacked 
over the natural wood without staining. 



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46 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 




TOWEL ROLLER 

Do not start to make a towel roller until you 
have found a piece of round wood, such as a cur- 
tain pole, suitable for the roller. All the old paint 

and varnish should 
be removed and the 
surface sandpapered 
fresh and clean. The 
back piece should be 
about a half inch 
thick and twenty inches long, although this meas- 
urement may have to be changed a little if the 
toweling is of some special width. The shape of 
the end blocks is clearly shown in the drawing. A 
hole about a half or three-quarters of an inch in 
diameter is to be bored in the center half-way 
through, after which 
the wood extending 
from the hole to the 
top of the block is to 
be cut away, so that 
the roller may be 
slipped in. Saw off 
the lower front corner of each block and attach 
by driving nails in through the back. The ends of 
the roller are now to be worked down evenly all 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 47 

the way around, so that it will run freely between 
the end blocks. 

The finish may be white enamel or shellac var- 
nish on the natural wood, depending on the wood- 
work in the room where it is to be used. 




48 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



THE USEFUL SLEEVE BOARD 

Your clothes may be expensive, but 
No matter how you're dressed, 

You never will look really neat 
Unless your clothes are pressed. 

A coat that is all wrinkled and 

A baggy pair of pants 
Will always look untidy 

Under any circumstance. 

Then make this little sleeve board, so 
Your coat may be well pressed, 

Then neatly crease your trousers 
And you'll always look your best. 







WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 49 

SLEEVE BOARD 

Ironing shirtwaists and pressing suits is hard 
work at best, and, as every girl and boy wish 
to have their clothes look neat, the least that the 
young carpenter can do is to get out the tools 




and make a neat little sleeve board so that every 
convenience may be at hand. 

Before starting the actual construction, consult 
with mother or sister and see whether the thirty- 
inch board shown in the drawing would be the 
most convenient size. Should some slight change 
be found necessary in the top, it is not likely that 
the lower part need be changed, but even should 
one wish to change it all around, no difficulty will 
be found as the small squares indicate the proper 
proportions. 

The top and bottom pieces are two one-inch 
boards, which measure seven-eighths after being 



50 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

planed at the mill. Be sure that the pieces se- 
lected have no knots, or the resin will come out 
with the heat. Draw a five-inch circle at one end 
of the top board and a three-inch one at the other, 
and then join these by two straight lines. Saw and 
plane off the sides, and then saw the ends round 
with the keyhole saw, finishing them smooth with 
sandpaper. Next square up the base board and 
draw a two-inch circle at each corner, which 
should then be rounded off accordingly. It now 
remains to prepare the center piece, which is to be 
two inches thick. Bore two one-inch holes clear 
through at the points marked in the working draw- 
ing, after which saw out the V-shaped piece at 
each end and round the corners, so that they will 
not catch whatever is being pressed. Fasten this 
piece in place by driving nails in through the bot- 
tom, and then nail on the top. In order to have 
these pieces properly centered, mark out the posi- 
tion of the center piece on both the top and bottom. 
All corners should be well rounded and sand- 
papered smooth. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



51 






STATIONERY RACK 

A stationery rack is something that may be made 
in a very short time, but if it is made as it should 
be, with the outline 
sharp and true and 
the seams all closely 
fitted, it will require 
a lot of care and at- 
tention. 

The size will de- 
pend somewhat on 
the size of the sta- 
tionery one uses, but 
any slight change in the width and height need not 
affect the depth from front to back or the curved 
outline. 

On the end pieces mark out some one-inch 
squares, using the steel square to see that they are 
true. Set the points of the compasses exactly one 
inch apart and then with the pointed end on each 
of the four center points marked by the black dots 
in the working drawing, draw four quarter circles, 
and you will immediately have the proper shape 
for the ends. Before sawing these out with the 
fret saw, cut out a strip along the front of each 
end board just wide enough to let the front piece 
set in. Place the two ends together and sandpaper 



52 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

































































































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the edges flat and smooth. For the curves wrap 
the sandpaper around something round, such as a 
can about two inches in diameter. The front and 

back pieces are plain 
boards, sawn off per- 
fectly square on the 
ends. If you have 
any trouble in keep- 
ing the edges from 
becoming rounded 
while sandpapering 
them, nail the front 
and back to the ends 
so that they will 
project beyond just 
a trifle, and then 
after the bottom is 
fitted in you may 
sandpaper them off 
exactly even with the 
end boards. The 
center board now re- 
mains to be closely 
fitted in place, but 
before nailing this in, it and the rest of the rack 
should be stained the desired shade and rubbed with 
wax, as it would be very inconvenient to get at the 
inside after the center piece is in place. The heads 































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WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



53 



of the small brads used in the construction should 
be well set into the wood and puttied over. 

If you happen to have some large clamps and 
good glue, the front piece may be put on without 
nails. If you try this have everything ready be- 
fore putting on the glue. 



54 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

STATIONERY RACK AND INKSTAND 

Just think — a stationery rack, inkstand, pen and 
pencil holder, and calendar all in one, which any 
boy or girl may make for a few cents. Besides the 
wood, all that is needed is a small glass ink pot, 
such as is used in school desks. 

There are but five pieces of wood and these are 
only one-quarter of an inch thick. First mark out 




the sides very carefully. Make the curves with 
the compasses and then cut the wood exactly to 
line. The upright pieces are set into slots cut in 
the sides, so be sure that these slots are just large 
enough to make a tight fit. After the two sides 
are cut to line, place them together, sandpaper 
the edges flat and smooth, and hollow out the 
places for the pen and pencil. The two upright 






WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



55 



pieces require no attention aside from having their 
ends made smooth and the corners rounded. The 
last of the five pieces is for the ink pot, and should 
have a hole bored or sawn in the center just large 
enough to hold it 
firmly. Fasten each 
side to this piece with 
two nails and then 
set the uprights in 
place, applying a lit- 
tle glue in the slots 
already cut in the 
side pieces. Before 
allowing these to set, 
however, be sure that 
the sides are perfectly parallel and stand straight. 
It now only remains to find something round for 
a cover for the ink pot. If a suitable cover can- 
not be found, simply cut out a neat disc of thin 
wood and fasten a small knob on top in the center. 
It will often be found more convenient to stain 
and wax the different pieces after they are all per- 
fectly fitted, but before nailing them together. 
When the article is completed all finger marks 
should then be removed by going over the surface 
again with the waxy rag. 




m 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 




BOOK RACK 

While we are furnishing up our desk it would be 
well to consider the question of a book rack for it. 
The rack illustrated is large enough to hold all of 

your study books or 
may be used to hold 
the current books 
being read by the 
rest of the family. 

The end boards 
should be three-quar- 
ters of an inch thick 
and carefully marked 
out, as shown in the working drawing. If the sharp 
point of the compasses is placed exactly at the 
center points indicated by the black dots, no diffi- 
culty will be found in getting the curves. The 
only trouble will be in cutting the edge of the 
board exactly true with your lines. Do not saw 
too close, and when trimming off, frequently test 
with the try square, or you will be almost sure to 
cut away too much on one side. When both ends 
are finally worked down to line, place them back 
to back, with penciled sides out, and sandpaper the 
edges until they are exactly alike. 

The two side boards should be about five-eighths 
of an inch thick and require only to be sawn off 



WHEX MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER. 



57 



perfectly square on the ends and exactly the same 
length. Mark the places where these go on the 
end pieces and then nail the whole together. If you 
happen to know how to use dowel pins, the pieces 
may be fast- 
ened without 
nails. Dowels 
are simply 
short pieces of 
round wood. 
When a con- 
nection is to 
be made in 
this manner, a 
hole just large 
enough to let the pin fit in tightly is bored in each 
of the two pieces exactly opposite. The pin is then 
coated with glue and driven into one of the holes. 
When the glue has set the other piece may be tem- 
porarily driven on, and if everything fits together 
properly the pieces are taken apart and some glue 
applied to the other half of the pin, after which 
they are put together again for good. Usually not 
less than two dowel pins are used for each con- 
nection. 

Stain, and if nails are used, putty over the heads 
with stained putty and rub with wax — all as pre- 
viously described. 



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58 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



THE CLOCK ON THE WALL 

Hickory, dickory, dock, 
The mouse ran up the clock, 

Long years ago. 

For grandpa's clock was tall 
And stood out in the hall 

And ticked so slow. 

It made a fine big house 
For many a little mouse, 

That slept all day. 

But now our clocks are small, 
So we hang them on the wall, 

Out of the way. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



59 



PUTTING UP A SHELF 



Almost everyone knows how to put up the ordi- 
nary shelf — simply screw two brackets to the wall 
and a board on top, and the job is done. But sup- 
posing there is no room for brackets, as, for ex- 




7Q •£) 



ample, is usually the case over the kitchen sink, — 
what then? Just turn the brackets upside down 
and " hang " the shelf in place. If the place where 
the top screws are to be put, stands out from the 
wall, set the brackets a little forward on the shelf 
board so that the back edge will naturally hang 
against the wall and you will find this sort of a 
shelf very safe and steady. 

A much more interesting task, however, is to 
make the small clock bracket illustrated. The lay- 
ing out of the sides is in itself an interesting les- 
son in curves. By examining the working draw- 



60 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



ing we find the back is eight by ten inches. Get 
a smooth flat board not less than one-half inch 
thick and lightly mark out the one-inch squares 
with a sharp pencil. Examine the drawing again 
and you will notice that there are two side curves, 
a top curve and one for the bottom. Each curve 




has its own center, the position of which is clearly 
indicated in the drawing by a black dot. Place 
the sharp point of the compasses on each of these 
dots and spread the pencil point until it touches 
the outside line at the top, bottom or side of the 
board, as the case may be. With these curves 
drawn, the rest of the outline may be finished in a 
few minutes. 

The curve of the small piece under the shelf 
board is not part of a circle and must be sketched 
in freehand after the small squares are drawn as a 
guide. The shelf board requires no special atten- 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



61 



tion after the ends are made perfectly smooth and 
square, except to have its corners rounded. Fasten 
this to the back board by means of nails driven in 
from behind, and then 
attach the bracket piece 
in the same manner, 
after which drive in 
two nails down through 
the shelf. 

The bracket may be 
hung upon the wall by 
a nail in the center, or 
better still, by one at 
each corner. In this 
case the holes should be 
about a quarter of an 
inch in diameter, and in 
order to hide the heads 
of the two nails set in 
the wall, shape up 
two three-quarter inch 
squares of wood about 
one-quarter of an inch 
thick, and then whittle 
them to a dull point, as 
illustrated. By gluing one of these on at each of 
the upper corners, i/he supporting nails will be com- 
pletely hidden. 





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62 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



FLOWER BRACKET 

The department stores nowadays sell so many 
beautiful brass and pottery flower jars at a very 
low price that there is no excuse for any house not 
having a lovely hanging 
fern, provided there is a 
young carpenter at hand to 
make a nicely stained and 
waxed bracket from which 
to suspend it. From our 
drawing it will be noted 
that a suitable bracket is not 
hard to make, as only three 
pieces of wood are used. 

The back board is four 
by nine inches and should 
be about one-half inch thick. 
Three separate curves enter 
into the form of the top 
line, but these may be very 
quickly drawn with the com- 
passes if you make sure they are centered exactly 
on the points marked with the black dots in the 
working drawing. Saw away the extra material 
with the fret saw, and finish the edges smooth with 
plane and sandpaper. Plane up a strip long 
enough to make the two pieces that project out, 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



63 



sawing off the one perfectly square and the other 
at forty-five degrees, which is the angle made by 
folding a square of paper in two from opposite 
corners. Fasten the upper one in place by nailing 
in through the back 
and then nail on the 
slanting brace, which 
operation will re- 
quire a little care in 
order to keep from 
bending the top piece 
out of place. 

This bracket will be 
found large enough 
for almost any ordi- 
nary flower j ar. 
Sometimes, however, 
long, narrow, point- 
ed jars are used, in 
which case a more slender bracket would be appro- 
priate. When a change, such as this, appears de- 
sirable, always mark out the lines of the new piece 
full size on a sheet of paper in order to be sure that 
it will look well. 





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64 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

FOOTSTOOL 

A footstool is always a handy article to have 
around, and one with a place for the hand, so that 
it may be readily carried about, is especially useful 
in the kitchen. Haven't 
you noticed how the cook 
likes to hold the pan in her 
lap when shelling peas or 
cleaning strawberries ? — and 
how often the shelf in the 
pantry is just a few inches too high! Our draw- 
ing shows how to make a footstool out of five pieces 
only. 

The material should be seven-eighths of an inch 
thick, which is the thickness of one-inch boards 
after the mill gets through planing them. First 
trim off the ends perfectly square and then saw 
out the feet with the fret or keyhole saw. Saw 
out each of the upper corners just enough to allow 
the side pieces to fit in evenly with the edges. The 
side pieces are now to be marked out in accordance 
with the drawing and their edges worked down 
smoothly and square with the sides, after which 
only the top remains. Saw the ends of this piece 
off squarely, round the corners, and then with the 
plane round off the top edge all the way around. 
To form the opening for the hand, bore two holes 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



65 



and saw out the wood in between, after which the 
edges should be worked smooth with sandpaper. 
Nail the sides to the two ends, and then fasten on 
the top. This may be done by nailing in through 
the top, or more neatly by screws put in from 
underneath from the inside at an angle. 




66 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



SHINY SHOES 

Do not get in such a rush, 
That you haven't time to brush 

Your own shoes. 

You can always find the time, 
That it takes to get a shine — 

If you choose. 

Everyone wants to look neat, 
As they walk along the street, 

When it's fine. 

But you'll not look as you should, 
Even though your clothes are good — 
Without a shine. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



67 



BLACKING STAND 

Blacking one's shoes is no trouble at all when by 
merely lifting a lid you can find everything right 
at hand — brushes, polish and all — including a 
block to keep your foot from slipping. This is 
exactly what the black- 
ing stand illustrated 
provides. 

The working draw- 
ing clearly shows the 
method of laying out 
the end boards. These 
and all of the other 
pieces are made of inch 
lumber after it has 
been dressed smooth. 
On the center line of each end mark a point 
five inches from the bottom, and, with the sharp 
point of the compasses placed there draw a six- 
inch circle, after which draw a line from each 
side of this circle down to a point on the bot- 
tom line an inch and a half from the outside 
corner. Saw out the piece in between, using the 
regular saw on the straight part and the keyhole 
saw on the curves. Finish the edges smooth and 
saw out a strip at each side near the top so that the 
side pieces will fit in. The other pieces are of the 




68 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



sizes noted in the drawing and require nothing 
further than trimming up true and square with 

smooth flat ends. 



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In putting together, 
first nail the sides to 
the ends, and then fit 
in the bottom, nailing 
it in place through the 
sides and ends. Next 
nail on one-half of the 
top, and then hinge 
the other half to it, 
after which it only re- 
quires the addition of 
the foot block to com- 
plete the stand ready 
for staining. 

The most desirable 
hinges for this purpose 
are the kind known as butt hinges. A pair of 
these will be necessary, and the width should be 
about equal to the thickness of the top boards. 
In order that there will not be a space between 
the two halves of the top, the wood should be cut 
away, so as to let the hinges fit in even. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



69 



SHOE-BRUSH BOX 

Sometimes there is no convenient place to keep 
a blacking box, in which case the best we can do 
is to make a shoe-brush box and hang it on the 
wall. The back space will hold a pair of brushes, 
and the smaller one in front is for the polish, the 
daubing brush and polish- 
ing rag. The construction 
is not difficult, and when the 
box is stained a dark brown 
or painted black it presents 
a neat appearance. 

The two side pieces 
should be about a half inch 
thick, and the back, front 
and center piece about 
three-eighths. To get a 
pattern for the sides, mark 
out four rows of one-inch 
squares, eight in a row. 

Take a pair of compasses and with the sharp point 
set on the black dots marked on the working draw- 
ing, draw in the curves, and you will have the cor- 
rect shape for the end almost at once. This may 
all be done on a flat sheet of paper, after which 
the pattern is cut out with the scissors so that it 
may be transferred to the wood. Another way is 



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70 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



to draw the squares directly on the wood in the 
first place. This is the more accurate way, and if 
one edge of the wood is 
planed exactly straight, so 
that the square will slide 
along nicely, the small 
squares may be very quick- 
ly and accurately drawn. 
Always use a sharp pencil, 
and do not bear down hard. 
When the outline is com- 
plete saw it out with the 
fret saw, after which the 
edges are to be trimmed 
and sandpapered. The 
two sides should be exactly 
the same when placed to- 
gether. 

The back board is next 
in order, and should be 
marked and cut out in the 
same way as the sides. 
Bore a quarter-inch hole 
near the top in the exact 
center for hanging, after 
which prepare the front 
board, which requires no further attention after 
the ends are trimmed off smooth and square. Be 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 71 

sure that this piece is exactly as long as the back 
is wide. 

The putting together may now begin. Nail 
through the back into the sides, and then nail on 
the front, after which the bottom should be cut 
so that it will fit snugly inside. Nail this in place, 
and then fit in the center piece, which is fastened 
in place by nailing in through the sides. 



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72 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



FLOWER STAND 

There is nothing that adds so much to the ap- 
pearance of an indoor plant as to place the pot or 
jar in which it is growing on an attractive stand. 

The stand illustrated is 
very suitable for this, 
and may also, of course, 
be used for other pur- 
poses. 

The construction 
should commence with 
the side pieces, which 
are one-half inch thick. 
These are all identical, 
except that two of the 
four are one inch nar- 
rower, so that when the other two are nailed to 
them the stand will be exactly as wide on one side 
as another. 

On a smooth sheet of paper proceed to mark out 
the outline in accordance with the working draw- 
ing, taking particular care to shape the feet prop- 
erly. Place the sharp point of the compasses on 
the small dots, and draw the necessary circles. If 
these do not cut the small squares exactly as shown, 
it means that you haven't got the proper center 
points. In forming the large opening, first draw 



aaa 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



73 



the seven-inch circle, and then the two smaller 
curves near the top, after which a piece of string 
will be necessary for the side curves. The radius 
of these will be exact- 
ly seventeen inches, 
and the centers are 
on the same cross 
line as the center of 
the seven-inch circle. 
Simply run this line 
out to each side, and 
drive in a tack at the 
proper point. When 
the outline is com- 
plete, cut out with a 
sharp knife or very 
small pair of scissors, 
and then place it on 
each of the four side 
pieces, which should 
then be marked out with a sharp pencil. Saw out 
the large opening, and shape up the feet, all very 
carefully, so as not to tear off any splinters and 
thus spoil the outline. Trim off the edges, and 
smooth with sandpaper, after which the four sides 
may be nailed together. 

A bottom board is now in order, and should be 
made perfectly square and just large enough to 



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fit snugly inside. The top board, you will note, 
is to be large enough to project an inch and a 
half all the way round, and requires no further 
attention after the ends are worked down with 
sandpaper on a block until they are smooth and 
flat. On the under side of this nail a square piece 
just large enough to fit inside, after which the 
top may be put in position and fastened down by 
nailing in through the four sides into this under 
piece. 

Stain as desired, and carefully putty all nail 
holes, after which a good rubbing with wax will 
complete the piece. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



75 



SLIPPER BOX 

The slipper box illustrated is really a box with 
a door in front, the top being padded so as to make 
a comfortable leg rest or temporary seat. When 
father or uncle sits 
down in the evening 
in the big chair, his 
slippers are right at 
hand, and also a com- 
fortable place to put 
his feet. At first 
glance this piece of 
furniture will appear 
rather hard to make, 
but when you learn 
how to go about it, it is quite simple. Perhaps you 
may have to get a little assistance when it comes 
to padding the top, but there surely will be no 
trouble in that. 

All of the pieces should be one-inch dressed lum- 
ber. Choose pieces that have a pretty grain and 
are free from knots. Start with the two ends. 
Plane up the edges so that the two boards are 
exactly the proper width, and then lightly mark 
off the necessary squares with a sharp pencil, using 
the steel square to keep the lines parallel. Place 
the sharp point of the compasses on the black dots 




76 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



shown in the working drawing, and draw the neces- 
sary curves. The top curve, however, cannot be 
drawn with the compasses as it is too large. The 
center point for this is exactly in the middle of the 

board at the bottom, 
and the best way is 
to drive in a tack at 
this point and use a 
string. The differ- 
ent curves must now 
be joined up with 
pencil and ruler, and 
when the outline is 
satisfactorily com- 
pleted, the sawing 
out should begin. 
Saw very carefully 
so as not to tear off 
any splinters, and 
then take the plane 
and knife and trim 
down to line. Test 
the edges frequently, or you will be sure to trim 
off more toward one side than toward the other. 
When the two are finally shaped up, place them 
together, and sandpaper the edges smooth with a 
piece of sandpaper wrapped on a block. For the 
curves, wrap the paper on a round piece of wood. 

























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77 



The top, bottom and back boards are all plain 
pieces of exactly the same length — all sixteen 
inches long. The top piece is the same width as 
the ends, while the bottom is an inch and a half 
narrower. The width of the back piece is ten and 
a quarter inches. Be- 
fore attempting to 
put together, pre- 
pare four square 
strips, one inch wide 
and seven inches 
long. Mark out on 
the ends exactly 
where the top and 
bottom pieces come, 
and then fasten on 
these strips to the 




end 



inside surfaces of the 
boards, all as illustrated in the skeleton view. 
When the strips are securely fastened in place, 
it is a very simple matter to fasten the top 
and bottom pieces to them. In all this we may 
use glue and nails, although a carpenter would 
probably use screws. Do not fasten any piece in 
place until you have fitted them all together to 
make sure that everything is all right. The back 
is next to be put in position, and should be just 
wide enough to fit snugly in between the top and 
bottom pieces without leaving any seams. It is 



78 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

then fastened in place by nailing in through the 
top and bottom. The front is the same as the 
back, except that it is just enough smaller all the 
way round to permit of it being used as a door. 
This is to be attached with two hinges at the bot- 
tom, and if strap hinges of brass or copper can be 
obtained at some arts-and-crafts store, they should 
be used, but if not, simply get the best looking 
hinges you can at the hardware store. A small 
knob or cupboard catch to match the hinges should 
also be purchased and placed in the center near the 
top of the door. 

The staining and waxing are now in order, after 
which the top is to be upholstered. Go to the 
furniture store and get sufficient upholstering ma- 
terial to tightly pad the top. Pile this on evenly 
and draw a piece of cotton or canvas over it, tack- 
ing it in place after stretching evenly. With the 
tape, measure the correct size for the final top 
covering of imitation leather, allowing enough for 
turning the edges under. This and about three 
dozen fancy tacks will complete the job. Tack 
the leather along one edge of the top board first 
and then along the other, after which fasten the 
ends. Be sure the tacks are evenly spaced. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



79 



UMBRELLA STAND 

As soon as one decides to make an umbrella 
stand he should be on the outlook for a shallow 
round pan about six inches 
in diameter, to place in the 
bottom to catch the drip- 
pings from the wet um- 
brellas. While a tin pan 
may be made to answer by 
enameling it, a brass or 
copper one will look bet- 
ter and be more durable. 

The construction should 
begin with the two side 
boards, which should be 
smooth, free from knots, 
and about three-eighths of 
an inch thick. First plane 
the edges off until each 
piece is exactly eight inches wide, and then mark out 
the outline in accordance with the working drawing, 
in which each square represents one square inch. It 
will be understood, of course, that it is not necessary 
to cover the entire board with squares, although 
enough should be drawn at each end to enable one 
to readily locate all necessary points. Use the 
compasses to get the curves, and be sure that the 



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80 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



three square openings are all exactly the same size. 
Saw these out neatly with the fret saw, which 

should also be used for 
the circular opening near 
the top. The long, nar- 
row slot may be worked 
out with the knife, al- 
though sawing will be the 
safer way. See that all 
edges and corners are 
finished sharp and true, 
and then shape up the top 
and the two feet at the 
bottom. 

A square board for the 
bottom is next in order, 
and a large hole should 
be sawn in the center of 
this to let the drip pan 
set in. The two cross- 
pieces at the top remain 
to be prepared and should 
be exactly as long as the 
bottom board and per- 
fectly square and flat on the ends. Mark off on 
the inner surface of each side board just where 
the other pieces are to be fastened. Fasten one 
of the sides to the bottom, and then nail on the 








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cross-pieces, after which turn over and put on the 
other side. 

Stain to match the surrounding furniture. 
Apply a coat of thin shellac, rub with steel wool 
when dry, and then wax. To cover up the nail 
holes, drive in close to each nail a nail with a large 
fancy head, or glue on a small round block over 
each one before staining, taking due care that they 
are evenly set. 



82 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



THE WASTE-BASKET 

When little girls cut paper dolls, 
They always make a muss, 

And 'less they pick up all the scraps, 
There's sure to be a fuss. 

So make this little basket and 
Just keep it where you play. 

Then when you have the dolls all cut, 
Please put the scraps away. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



83 



WASTE-BASKET 

A waste-basket, when properly made, is one of 
the most attractive articles that the young car- 
penter can make for the home. There are six 
pieces in the basket illustrated, which are laced 
together near the top with strips of white leather, 
which is also used to 
fasten on the two large 
rings that serve as han- 
dles. 

The six side pieces 
should be from one- 
quarter to three-eighths 
of an inch thick. Square 
them up all exactly the 
same size, and then use 
the compasses to draw the 
half circle at the bottom 
of each piece and the 
quarter circle at each of 
the upper corners. Do 
not mark one board from 
another, but use the com- 
passes on each one sepa- 
rately. Six quarter-inch 
holes must now be bored in each piece as indicated, 
due care being taken not to tear off any splinters. 




84 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

The marking out of the bottom is very simple. 
On a large piece of smooth paper draw a straight 
line A — C exactly twelve inches long. Place the 
point of the compasses at A and draw a half circle 
through the center point B. Then place the com- 
passes at C and draw another half circle through 
B, after which place the point at B and draw a 
full circle through A and C. Join up the points 
where the circles cut each other and you will have a 
perfect six-sided figure, which, by the way, is called 
a hexagon. Remember you do not have to change 
the compasses once after they are properly set. 

Saw out the bottom accordingly, and test the 
edges with the square, in order to make sure that 
the sides will stand straight when they are fastened 
on. Stain all of the pieces the color desired and 
finish with a thin coat of shellac, which should be 
well rubbed with wax when dry — all as previously 
described. Each side piece is now to be fastened 
onto the bottom board with two screws or nails, 
the positions of which should first be measured 
and marked out, so as to have them evenly spaced. 
When the sides are attached, lace the pieces to- 
gether at the top, tying the knots inside. Go to 
the furniture store and get a dozen nails with large 
fancy heads and drive them in just to one side of 
the other nails, so as to cover them up and also 
serve as a decoration. 



WHEX MOTHER LETS US CABPENTER 



85 



TABORET 

We are now going to make something that will 
require all our attention. We must remember all 
the mistakes we have made in our carpentry ex- 
perience up to date and 
be careful to avoid 
them from now on, be- 
cause this and the 
bench and table that 
follow are full-sized 
pieces of furniture. 

In the present case it 
will be necessary to 
find a smooth flat board 
twelve inches wide from 
which to cut the top. 
Get a smooth sheet of 
paper and draw a per- 
fect twelve-inch square. 
Mark two points on 
each side exactly three and one-half inches from the 
corners, and, after joining these with straight lines, 
you will have a good eight-sided figure for the top. 
Mark this out on the wood, and carefully saw off 
the corners, after which plane and sandpaper the 
edges smooth. In order to keep this piece from 
warping, nail a strip about an inch thick and two 




86 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



inches wide on the under side, across the grain, tak- 
ing care that the nails 
do not come through 
on the top side. This 
strip should be placed 
in the exact center, 
so that the legs will 
hide it when they are 
put on. The four legs 
must now be sawn to the 
proper taper and planed 
smooth on the sides. 
Saw out the small piece 
at the bottom of each 
one to form the feet 
and then round off the 
upper corners. The 
cross-braces are now to 
be sawn and should be 
exactly as long as the 
top is wide. Each of 
these pieces must be cut 
down one-half at the 
center, so that they will 
cross one another just as though they were made 
from one piece of wood. As soon as these are fitted 
nicely and tested with the square, the putting to- 
gether may commence. Mark the edges of the top 




WHEX MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



87 



to show exactly where the legs should be fastened, 
and then nail on the legs, after which the cross- 
braces should be nailed in place. In order to add 
a little ornament and at the same time cover up the 
nail heads, some small round blocks should be glued 
on, or else nails with large brass or copper heads, 
such as upholsterers use, should be driven in just to 
one side of the ordinary nails. 

Stain the desired color, shellac and rub with wax 
— all as previously described. 




88 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

BENCH 

In making this bench our object ought to be 
to make something good enough to use indoors — 
perhaps in the workshop or maybe in the attic 
where the wireless outfit is. 

While the drawing shows the foot rail fastened 
in with a key and tenon, it should be understood 






that this may be omitted if desired, in which case 
the rail will be held in place by two nails driven 
into it through each end board. 

The material is all inch-dressed lumber. The 
working drawing clearly shows how to mark out 
the end pieces. By examining this you will find 
that you will have to make six different curves with 
the compasses. This, however, is a very simple 
matter as the sizes and center points are all in- 
dicated on the drawing, and as soon as the curves 



WHEX MOTHER LETS ITS CARPENTER 



89 



are drawn it is only necessary to join them up 
with pencil and ruler, and the outline is finished. 
Saw out the little side curves with the fret 
saw and those at the 
bottom with the key- 
hole saw. Wrap a 
piece of sandpaper 
around something 
round and finish 
each curve smoothly. 
Next saw off the 
ends of the top 
squarely, and cut 
the two side pieces 
the same length, saw- 
ing off the lower 
corners as shown. 
Nail the top to these, 
carefully placing 
them just far enough 
apart so that the 
ends will fit in snugly 
between. The ends 
will now be fastened by nailing down through the 
top and in through the side pieces, after which it 
only remains to place the foot rail. 




90 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



STUDY TABLE 

Every boy and girl should have a place in the 
house that they may call their own. Each one 
should have a table where they may keep their writ- 
ing materials and books and read or study when 




they wish to. The present design for a table is 
one that any careful young carpenter may make 
without any great difficulty. It is, in fact, a com- 
bination table and book case. The top is made 
from three or more boards held together by strips 
nailed across the under side, and, in order to hide 
the cracks and at the same time provide a durable 



WHEX MOTHER LETS US CAKPEXTER 



91 




working surface, the top is covered with imitation 
leather, fastened on with fancy nails. The legs are 
plain boards and are nailed to the cross-strips 
underneath. The shelves are simply nailed in 
place and the heads of the nails are afterwards 
covered by gluing on some small round blocks. 
So you see all the difficult 
features in table making are 
eliminated. 

All of the material is one- 
inch dressed lumber. First 
make the top, and be sure 
that the cross-pieces are not 
only square on the ends, but are put on so that 
the legs will come just right when they are 
fastened in place. The four legs are next to 
be sawn squarely to the exact length and planed 
smooth on the edges. Shape up the lower ends 
with the fret saw, and mark the places where 
the shelves will come. The four shelf boards 
are now to be sawn to the same length and 
exactly as long as the cross boards previously 
nailed underneath the top. In putting together, 
first nail the two legs and two shelves of each end 
together. Place the top upside down on the floor, 
and then nail on the legs. It now remains to 
fasten on the foot board, for which screws should 
be used, so as not to loosen any of the nails already 



92 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



driven in. Should the table now be found the least 
bit shaky, brace it by nailing and glueing in some 
small blocks under the top and shelves on the 
inner side of the legs, as shown in the drawing. 
If it is desired to have the top look heavier, nail 




on strips on the under side all the way around and 
exactly even with the edge. After the table is 
stained and waxed, cover the top smoothly with 
some sheets of paper and then put on the imitation 
leather. Bring the edges clear around underneath 
and fasten them with ordinary tacks on the under 
side. Put in a tack only every foot or so until the 
leather is stretched evenly. When it is finally 
tacked all the way around, put in the fancy nails 
around the outer edge. Be sure to have them 
exactly in line and evenly spaced. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 93 



WINTER FLOWERS 

In winter when the ground is covered white, 
And all the trees stand brown and look so bare ; 
When meadows are no longer green and bright 
And gardens long have lost their blossoms fair : 

'Tis then it seems so good to have about 
Some ferns and flowers to lend a little cheer 
And brighten up the gloomy winter days — 
Lest we forget that Spring will soon be here. 



94 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



FLOWER BOXES 



RUSTIC TUB 

To plant flowers in a stiff looking box, a tin can 
or a pail, is to lose half their lovely effect when 
they are in bloom. We should always try to pro- 
vide an attractive place for 
them, because much of the 
time the plants have no 
flowers and no one wishes to 
have an ugly box or a rusty 
pail standing around. 

A rustic tub is suitable 
for large plants or even 
small trees, and is very 
easily made. Take a small 
tub such as butter comes in 
or else a wooden pail without a handle and cover 
the outside with slabs of wood about two inches 
wide with the bark on. These may be sawn from 
branches from three to four inches in diameter. 
Have them all exactly the same length and fitted 
closely together so that the tub is entirely hidden. 
If you can find some green boughs about one-half 
inch in diameter that will stand to be slowly bent 
half way around a tin can, our tub may be pro- 
vided with feet, as shown in the drawing. In this 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



95 



case a space must be left between every other or 
every third slab, and the number and width of the 
slabs should be arranged so that the feet will come 
out right. 







96 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



HANGING FERN BASKET 

A very pretty hanging basket may be made by 
building up small straight sticks with the bark on 
in the same way that a log house is built. The 

size of the basket will 
depend largely on the 
size of the fern which 
you wish to grow, but 
ordinarily the sticks 
should be from twelve 
to sixteen inches long. 
The sizes should taper 
from an inch in diam- 
eter for those at the 
bottom to half an inch 
for the top ones. In 
starting the construc- 
tion, nail four of the larger sticks together, so as to 
make a frame with the ends projecting about one 
and a half to two inches. Between the two upper 
sticks place a row of sticks so as to form a grating 
with half-inch spaces. This makes the bottom, and 
in building up the sides we simply nail on two pieces 
running one way and then two running the other, 
until the desired height is reached. Always drive 
the nails in at an angle, so that the nails of the 
next layer will not interfere when they are put in. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 97 

The best plan is to have the sticks all sawn to the 
proper length before nailing together, so that the 
entire attention may be given to building the sides 
up squarely. Two long, thin branches are now to 
be found and slowly bent so as to form the long 
handles. Nail these to the inside corners, and wire 
the handles together at the top — and the basket is 
done. 

In filling such a basket with new earth it will 
be necessary to line the inside with moss or leaves 
to keep it in, but after a few waterings the whole 
forms into a solid mass and no trouble will be 
found. 




98 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 




GERANIUM BOX 

For growing geraniums or other plants on 
window-sills or the porch rail, a long narrow box 

is desirable. The 
best way to make an 
attractive box for 
this purpose is to get 
from the planing 
mill some long strips 
measuring about 
three-quarters by one inch. Saw off thirteen pieces 
twenty-four inches long, and eight pieces ten inches 
long. Set down five 
of the long pieces 
and nail a short one 
across each end, tak- 
ing due care that the 
long ones are evenly 
spaced and that all 
the ends project 
exactly the same 
amount. This forms 
the bottom, and it 
is a simple matter to add a pair of sides and 
then a pair of ends until they are all in place. Use 
the square to make sure that the sides and ends are 
going up squarely, and always nail in at an angle 



GERANIUM BOX 



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TOP view- r 
Z4> 



SIDE VIEW 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 99 

so that the nails of the next pair of strips will not 
interfere. 

A good coat of dark green or brown paint will 
greatly preserve the box. Line with leaves or moss 
when first filling with new earth. 



100 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



WOODEN JARDINIERES 

Every mother loves plants and flowers, and if 
the young carpenter wishes to make a present that 
will be sure to please, just make one of these 
wooden flower boxes, paint it dark brown or green, 
and then present it with an 
oleander or small orange 
tree growing in it. 

There is just one feature 
in the construction that will 
present any difficulty and 
that is due to the fact 
that the edges of the four 
side pieces are not exactly 
square with the sides. This 
is on account of the slant. 

After studying the drawing you will notice 
that two of the side boards must be narrower 
than the other two, because they fit inside, just like 
the ends of any box. The only way to do, there- 
fore, is to stand the four pieces up and then plane 
the edges of the two that fit inside until they fit 
closely. The edges of the two wider pieces should 
not be trimmed down until all four are nailed to- 
gether, when they can be worked down even with 
the outside. After fitting in the bottom, the four 



rj 

I] H I 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



101 



tapering pieces with the holes in them are to be 
made and nailed on. As these large holes come so 
near the ends, one had better bore them before 
sawing the pieces off, so as to prevent splitting. 
As soon as the end of the bit is felt coming through, 




JARDIM 



turn the piece over and bore from the other side, 
so as not to tear off splinters. Nail on the small 
block at each corner of the bottom — and the box 
is done. 

The construction of the second jardiniere or 
flower box will proceed in the same way, except 
that we must use the fret saw to cut out the curves. 
After marking out the necessary one-inch squares, 



102 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 




locate the center points 
marked with the black 
dots. Place the point of 
the compasses on these, 
and you will find that 
the curves shown in the 
working drawing will fall 
right in place. Saw out 
two sides according to the 
heavy lines, allowing just a little for planing off 
after nailing up. The other two sides will be ex- 
actly the same, except that their width must be 
reduced by the 
thickness of the 
other two sides, 
otherwise our box 
will not be square 
when we look 
down upon it. Set 
the heads of the 
nails deeply. Ap- 
ply a coat of lin- 
seed oil inside and 
out, and when this 
is dry putty up the 
holes over the nails. Paint brown or green as 
desired, giving the inside several coats as a pre- 
servative. 




.WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 103 



THE BIRDS 

It's lots of fun when round the house 

The birds begin to nest, 
For each sort has a different trick 

That it can do the best. 

Thus, every morning on the lawn 

Sir Robin hunts for worms, 
And quietly eats his breakfast as 

His victim twists and squirms. 

Miss Jenny Wren stays in her tree 

And nimbly hops about, 
And guards the pears and apples while 

She puts the bugs to rout. 

And then there is our speckled friend 
With the topknot red and bright, 

Who struts along the branches and 
Just pecks with all his might. 

The swallow always lives up high 

And darts along his way, 
But Mr. Thrush stays down below, 

And chirps and sings all day. 



104 WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 

The tailor-bird is very smart 
And sews his nest together, 

While mason-birds build nests of clay 
To keep out wind and weather. 

Some birds are proud and some are vain: 

The cuckoo's really bold, 
While some are very stylish 

And go south when it gets cold. 

And so it is with martins and 

The lark and linnet too: 
If you will only watch them, it's 

Surprising what they'll do. 




4* 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CABPENTER 105 



BIRD HOUSES 

Jenny Wren and Master Robin Red Breast are 
the best friends the farmer has. They and their 
brothers and sisters are the 
sworn enemies of all the bugs 
and worms that spoil the ap- 
ples and peaches. Any boy 
who throws stones at our na- 
tive birds or robs their nests is 
cheating himself. So let us 
encourage the birds by making 
homes for them, where they 
may raise their families and 
keep warm in winter. 

A whole book might be 
written on building bird 
houses, because each kind of bird has its own 
peculiar notions as to how a house ought to be 
arranged and where it should be placed, for no 
matter how nice you may make it, if it doesn't suit 
him exactly, he will not move in, even though the 
rent is free. All we can do at present is to de- 
scribe a few houses and leave the reader to experi- 
ment for himself. Watch where the birds nest, and 
place the house in the same sort of a place. If 
they don't go in at first, perhaps they will when 
the new smell and appearance wears away. The 




106 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



smell of paint is nearly always offensive to them, 
so leave the boxes plain. 

The wren appears to like a narrow deep box with 
a small opening about an inch in diameter near the 




top. Do not make the opening too large, for it is 
really surprising how small a hole a bird can get 
through. The working drawing gives all necessary 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 107 




sizes, although there is no need of being very exact. 

The back and bottom should be rather heavy. The 

rest of the material may be secured from a soap 

box. Saw off the sides at 

an angle, and then nail 

them to the bottom and 

back. Next nail on the 

front and fit on the top. 

Bore a small hole right 

under the main opening and 

tightly fit in a short piece of 

round wood for a landing 

place. 

Some birds, such as martins for example, will 
build out in the open and will often move into a 
bird house set on the top of a pole. Martin houses 
are sometimes made with as many as two dozen 
rooms, all of which will be occupied. To find out 
just what the birds in your district want, try this 
little house with the gable roof. See that the bot- 
tom is about an inch thick, or, if thinner, that it is 
braced with strong cross-pieces. The other pieces 
may be taken from some grocery box. Saw out the 
front and back, and try two holes in the front, with 
a small porch by the lower opening. If the birds 
do not go in, close one of the openings. Xail these 
pieces together, and then put on the sides, after 
which add the two roof boards. To keep the roof 

















































































































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WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER 



109 



from leaking, two thin pieces or a strip of tin 
should be nailed along the ridge. 

In putting up such a house, much will depend 
on how easy it is to get at the place where you are 
going to put it. If there is enough surface, simply 
set it down. If on a high 
pole, we must fasten a block 
or bracket to the bottom be- 
fore taking it up, and then 
fasten this to the pole. An- 
other way is to fasten a short 
pole to the bottom and then 
nail this to the side of the barn 
or chimney. 

Some birds like the wood- 
pecker insist on building their 
nests in a hollow tree. To 
lure such birds it is necessary to cover the house 
with bark. Make a long narrow box about four 
inches square and sixteen inches long. Cover this 
with bark, or, better still, with pieces of wood with 
the bark still on, which will give the house the 
rounded appearance of a tree. Make an inch and 
a quarter opening near the top in front, and put 
a little sawdust on the inside, and Mr. Woodpecker 
will be sure to move in. 




"When Mother Lets Us" Series 



"WHEN MOTHER LETS US COOK."— By Constance Johnson. 
An admirable cook book for very young cooks. Of genuine value. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US ACT."— By Stella George Stern Perry. 

A contribution of great value in amateur dramatics. This is not a book for work, 
it is a book for play. Tbere is nothing to learn by heart in it. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE PAPER-BOX FURNITURE." -By G. 
Ellingwood Rich, Brooklyn Training School for Teachers. 

This book shows exactly how to make fascinating doll's furniture out of paper 
boxes and materials which cost nothing. The ideas are new and unique. 

" WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE GIFTS."-By Mary B. Grubb. 

Tells children how to make all sorts of useful and charming things to give their 
parents and friends. No great outlay is required. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE TOYS."-By G. Ellingwood Rich, Brook- 
lyn Training School for Teachers. 

This book is for boys as well as girls. It teaches the youngsters to make good use 
of their time, fingers and the cast-off materials of any household. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE C AND Y."-By Elizabeth & Louise Bache. 

Tells the best and safest way to make all sorts of candy. The little readers are 

given many valuable hints that will help them in all kinds of cooking. 
"WHEN MOTHER LETS US CUT OUT PICTURES. "-By Ida E. Boyd. 

A book that will be a boon to mothers and children on rainy afternoons. A joy to 

the convalescent or sick child. Full of clever ideas. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US KEEP PETS."-By Constance Johnson. 

All children love animals. This little book teaches the child how to care for the 
various kinds of pets. It is a guide for dog-loving boys and kitten-loving girls alike. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US GARDEN." -By Frances Duncan. 

A popular handbook of simple gardening for beginners of all ages. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW."-By Virginia Ralston (Mrs. Ralston). 
A wonderfully practical book full of ideas that children can easily carry out. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US PLAY."-By Angela M. Kbyes. 

Deals with pantomimes, puppet shows, plays, spinning tales, rhyming, shadow pic- 
tures, "what to say" games and many other fascinating plays. 

" WHEN MOTHER LETS US HELP."-By Constance Johnson. 

Here are hints for bed-making, cleaning house, sweeping, care of cut flowers and 
house plants, notes on the ice box, the wood box, the pot and pan closet, etc. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US GIVE A PARTY."-By Elsie Duncan Yale. 

A useful book for birthday, Christmas— in fact, for any and every kind of party. 
" WHEN MOTHER LETS US CARPENTER."-By John D. Adams. 

A book telling boys and girls how to make many attractive and useful articles with 

few tools and at small expense. Attractively illustrated. 

"WHEN MOTHER LETS US MODEL."— By Helen Mortimer Adams. 

A book to teach children the use of clay, giving directions for making practical 
toys and useful objects and graded suggestions for artistic modelling. 

" WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE PLAYTHINGS."-By G. Ellingwood 
Rich. {In preparation.) 

Snpplements this author's earlier book, "WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE 
TOYS," and will be found of equal interest and value. 

Each volume fully illuttrated Price 75 cents, net, each 



MOFFAT, YARD & COMPANY New York 



